Neapolitans make the best of balmy evenings by passing the time on cafe terraces. Top choice is the oldest cafe in Naples, with a Liberty-style interior from the 1860s, the elegant Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia 1, in Piazza Trento e Trieste ((tel) 081-417582). Another very popular spot is La Caffetteria, Piazza dei Martiri 25 ((tel) 081-7644243), top choice for evening aperitivi. Opera & Classical Music — The venerable Teatro San Carlo, Via San Carlo 98 (www.teatrosancarlo.it; (tel) 081-7972412 or 081-7972331), stages world-class opera, along with dance and orchestral works, Tuesday through Sunday, December through June. Tickets cost between 30€ and 100€.
Associazione Alessandro Scarlatti, Piazza dei Martiri 58 (www.associazionescarlatti.it; (tel) 081- 406011), organizes a concert series at Castel Sant’Elmo; ticket prices range from 15€ to 25€.
Bars & Clubs — This is a port, a cosmopolitan city, and a university town all rolled into one, so the Neapolitan nighttime scene is eclectic and lively. Piazza Bellini, near the university at the edge of the historical center, is an especially lively venue. Enoteche, or wine bars, provide a good choice of wines by the glass and by the bottle, a bit of food, and usually a relaxed atmosphere.