Naples, Italy

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Some other places that are very popular among the Neapolitans are almost all the pizzerias in Via dei Tribunali, in particular Di Matteo, Il Presidente [Dec 2013: closed?], Sorbillo, and his sister, a few doors away (informally known as “la vecchia” [the old lady], from the owner of the pizzeria, a very small place with only 4 or 5 tables, that looks like a pizzeria of 50 years ago — very hard to find, but it’s worth it!)

In general it is easy to find a good pizzeria, just look for one without tourists! Da Michele. Via Cesare Sersale, 1–3 (Centro Storico). Get a numbered ticket from the waiter at the door when you arrive. Tel. 081 553 9204. http://damichele.net Pizzeria Brandi. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 1–2 (just off via Chiaia on the end closer to Piazza del Plebiscito). Tel. 081 416928. http://brandi.it‎ Pizzeria di Matteo. Via dei Tribunali, 94. Tel. 081 455262. http://pizzeriadimatteo.com Pizzeria Gastronomia Nennella (not to be confused with the trattoria of the same name) is your window to fantastic pizza in the buffer zone between Quartieri Spagnoli and Chiaia. Almost only locals eat here — or have their pizza delivered on a scooter — despite being just up the hill from via Chiaia. There is a table and two stool-chairs outside the window you receive your pizza from if you prefer to “eat in,” but in the early evening the local scooter culture can make dining on this corner somewhat unpleasant. Marinara for €2.50, margherita for €3. The ortolana bianca is fantastic here, and there are a few other excellent vegetarian options. Via Santa Caterina da Siena (Gradoni Chiaia) at Vico Mortelle.